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10.31.2011 / Sunfish Pond

Tailspin Roof Unspun

When you encounter a boulder problem project that strikes you as aesthetic, proud, clean and challenging, it begins to saturate your free mind space. It gets its claws digs into you and you start obsessing about it. To me, I know when this happens there is something special about it. After the first session pulling on the Tailspin Roof project, I honestly could not stop thinking about it. I was most fascinated with how the sequence of moves were going to happen. Straight forward climbing into some mysterious and confusing rock feature.  Was it a toe hook, heel hook, dyno, hand foot match… What would it take to unlock this gem. There are so many possible sequences, all hard. All of them not high probability, but I knew it had to be something. The thought of it ending up being not climbable, was not an option.

After studying the video of the endless failing. I imagined that there had to be a possible way to kneebar off a high, small but large enough jib. This was my first thought, but the height of the move made it seem senseless as that would have to position your foot above your; head, hands and position the fall over a crazy, uneven drop zone. With the constant “mental climbing” from the days before, I knew I had to rush back and give it a try. Otherwise I was going to loose my mind.

We trekked back out to amazing Sunfish Pond and were greeted by a nice layer of the white fluffy stuff. Not letting it get to our heads we quickly dried off all the critical holds and let the beautiful sun do the rest of the work. Within an hour it was perfectly dry. I love this place!

Getting back to business we decided to warm up on the intro moves and after a few laps to the last high point. I had to get into the physical/mental crux territory and start trying the moves I had previously dreamed of. Once negotiated the possible fall, we were pleasantly surprised of how amazing the kneebar was. I mean, it was so bomber you had to almost force yourself out of the position when you wanted to come down. This amazing roof started to seem achievable. The rest of the day we kept trying to work the upper moves and we successfully done all the moves… except 1. The last move from tiny crimps to a large sloper just half a foot away. Attempt after attempt, no one was able to move off those small holds to the best hold on the problem.

Oh well back to day dreaming…