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11.28.2011 / Sunfish Pond

Tail Spin!!!

Its been a couple weeks since some local development has occurred. Prime November conditions have let me turn my focus to taking longer trips to some areas I haven’t spent much time at this year. After some awesome sending trips and realizing I feel stronger than ever, I knew I had to be irresponsible this Sunday and try and get out and tackle some undone project lines in some of the newly developed areas in NCPA.

I had my morning focus turned to the Tail Spin Project at Sunfish Pond, which to me is the most amazing line in the best area discovered this year. I have spent about 4 days trying to hone down the moves and a whole day trying to figure out the tricky crux moves. Unfortunately the climb is so taxing you can only give it a few hours of attempts before your muscles are burned

The temps were right, syke was right, no direct sunlight it was on! Not even warming up I decided to take some soft burns on the lower section and do the top out a few times to get it dialed. No falling off this time. After about a half dozen failed attempts at the crux, I uttered to myself, “Last one”. This must be some sort of subconscious switch, to get into sending mode because, it has worked on the past few climbs.

The climb started out good, but when I bumped to the final hold before the foot switch my left hand, which was in a shallow pocket lost a finger so I only had two in there. You can see in the video my foot kickout as I tried to get it back in, but it was a no go. It was the last attempt it was funny how the self conversation goes in the mind. I was telling myself it doesn’t matter, then you start thinking about the next moves. I had to focus the mind and go one move at a time. The first hard move for me is the final bump move to the “duckbill” before the knee bar section. I am at my full span and I caught it really weird. This was not going well… I was able to get into the kneebar and get my hands fixed. Crux time! I had to get on the tiny ass crimps and do the pop to the sloper. I couldn’t ask for anything more, my foot popped as I snatched the sloper, luckly my body was so tense because I mentally thought I was going to miss it. This helped me to quickly get back on and wrap it up. Tail spin! The project name sticks and suits it. So sloppy but I loved every minute of it. My favorite FA this year. It was semi-sad to change the status from project to send. To me the process is almost greater than the send.

I then packed everything up and made a quick drive to Doe Run, this gave me time to rest and eat and recoop, before the long walk down to the Fool’s Gold Project (now The Ring). I brushed up the aesthetic boulder and reacquainted myself with the movement and began getting into it. It took alot of work to get back to my previous high point. My skin was hurting after sussing out the crux moves. Which involve a three finger pocket (which is only a half pad deep and razor thin and sharp) and moves to a crappy dull slippery pinch and sloper. Not thinking it would go, this time gave it one more go for fitness. I must have blacked out as I was sitting on the top in a few seconds.

One of the best days in along while. Winter is fast approaching and I personally don’t climb well below 40 so lets hope one more good weekend of climbing.