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11.08.2011 / Sunfish Pond

Sunfish = the Business

Its November and we are having some really unseasonable weather (I am not complaining!). Time to take advantage and get outdoors. Although for climbing 70’s could be a touch too warm, especially if its project season. I headed out to Sunfish Pond to try and take down the stout Tailspin Project, give some solid attempts on the Sunfish Project and to establish some moderates as well. So I headed out solo and had the projects on the horizon to keep me syked.
I got right to work and cleaned up a couple of dyno problems that I felt would be a nice addition to the already hard array of lines. First went down was the Goldfish Dyno and secondly the Enlivened Dyno. Both moderate problems on fantastic rock. Since the Enlivened Dyno was on the Libations block, I decided to give it a couple of attempts for a repeat for video, see below. Its just such a fun line.

Feeling totally warmed up I headed over to the Tailspin Roof and got to business. Giving it ground up attempts for a few hours, I was getting closer and closer to the top out. On the last ditch effort, I cruised through all the moves, but just didn’t have any juice left for the top out. So depressing. Next time for SURE!!!

After that I went over to the Sunfish Project which; will be the hardest line there. A simple and steep crimp line. It is so hard I cannot even start it. An obvious crimp/arete and bomber feet to a simple couple moves to the lip. It just puts so much torque into the body and being on the small crimp its impossible to hold. All your weight in that hand, despite the foot hold being so large. Damn! This is totally above me at the moment and probably weights in at an estimated v12+ crux. Just speculation but seriously this thing is so hard, and yet so humbling. Hard-men come try this I’m serious.