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10.29.2011 / Sunfish Pond

Sunfish Pond – Tail Spin Roof

It was a cold and wet day but Chris and I ventured out to Sunfish Pond. I wanted to show him the newness as well take a peek across the lake at a potential monster boulder.

We arrived at Sunfish Pond late in the day, though we had tons of syke. We made a quick stop off a boulder that was 150yds from the road, I scoped this guy on google earth, turns out is pretty large roughly 18ft and is highly featured. (I forgot to get pics, next time) The only downfall is that since it was one large boulder it truly lacked any pure lines. Knowing that the other side of the lake had some super projects, we hustled over and made our way to the goodies.

We spent most of the day working out the right line on the Tail Spin Roof. A large, long and 70 degree roof with perfect flawless white sandstone. It took us some time to make it out to the high point for the day but once all the moves were done its pretty quick to make it there. Now comes the crux of the climb. Feet drop away holds are super far and gravity kicks in. Below is a video of all our failing. Toe hook beta??

Once we felt we felt we had flailed enough on the roof, the top out of Libations “appeared” to be dry enough to climb. We headed over to the very fun boulder and got it prepped for climbing. Unfortunately my camera died pre-repeat-top-out-fail as well as a pre-SA. I wanted to try and repeat this classic line but as I found the topout wasn’t as dry as it appeared and I literally flew off the top as my hands slipped off the last hold. Despite a sketchy fall, Libations saw a “repeat” and a second accent (great work Chris). I’ll have to get back and film the problem again as it is a very cool sequence of moves with some unique movement.

To the right of the problem another line surfaced a cool but tricky traverse, Strange Vibrations. The name came from the strange pulsing sound that I have been hearing out there for the past couple months. Luckily I can checkout of the mental clinic, as Chris confirmed he finally heard the same sounds. What a relief … But what is that sound… really??!